Winter 2004: Farro -- A grain of the pharaohs and of Roman soldiers makes a comeback...

I’ve been hearing about a grain called farro. Is it the same as spelt?

FARRO (triticum Dicoccum) - WHAT IS IT

Farro (pronounced FAHR-oh) was one of the first grains known to man and kernels have been discovered in Egyptian tombs. For centuries, this ancient unhybridized form of wheat has been grown throughout the Mediterranean basin. Farro gave rise to the Italian word for flour, farina. It was the standard ration for Roman Legions that expanded through the Western World. Ground into a paste and cooked “puls” was the polenta-like porridge eaten on its own or with chick peas or other legumes for centuries by the Roman poor. Unfortunately it was difficult to work and produced low yields. In the centuries following the fall of the Roman Empire, higher yielding grains were developed and farro’s cultivation dwindled. By the turn of the century in Italy there were just a few hundred acres of fields scattered over the regions of Lazio, Umbria, the Marches, Tuscany and Puglia.

Farro is a little light brown cereal grain similar to the soft wheat used for pastry flour (Triticum volgare) and the hard wheat used for bread flour (triticum durum). What differentiates farro from wheat is the husk or hull. The farro husk adheres to the grain during harvest, just like barley and oats.

Spelt (triticum spelta) is often confused with farro, but it is much less common. Spelt has a farro-like husk, looks like farro but it is a soft grain that turns pasty and mushy when cooked and has a rather flat taste. True farro has two distinctive spikes, a sturdy body and retains its bite and firm chewy texture even if reheated several times. Farro must be soaked, whereas spelt can be boiled straight off. Spelt is often sold as farro, but the texture and taste confer its distinctly different quality. This means that you have to read the package carefully when you purchase farro to be sure that you are getting Triticum dicoccum (Farro’s Latin name). Farro is often called emmer wheat.

HOW IS IT GROWN?

Farro is planted in October and early November. It grows best on dry hillsides about 1000 ft above sea level or on hillsides where good drainage is guaranteed. It prefers dry weather and poor soils. If the plant receives too much water, it will grow too high, bend with the weight of the grain, and rot. Farro is harvested in early June, mostly by hand. It yields one kernel per ear. (Wheat in contrast yields approx. 48 kernels per ear.) The average yield per acre for farro is one-sixth that of wheat.

Because farro thrives in poor conditions, pesticides are not needed and it is usually grown by organic methods. Farro is very popular among natural food fans.

Although grown in most of the central regions of Italy, the farro from the Garfagnana area of Tuscany is famous for its pure, nutty taste.

BENEFITS

This ancestor of durum or more modern strains of wheat is enjoying a resurgence in popularity in Italy as well as among trendy health-conscious cooks in America. With all of the problems of obesity today, it would benefit all of us to eat a healthier, more genuine and simple food such as farro. Farro is not a complete protein source but becomes one when eaten with legumes. It is a high energy food, easily digested and assimilated into the body - very rich in fiber, magnesium, and vitamins A, B, C, and E. Some also say that farro has aphrodisiacal properties. Legends refer to the sexual prowess of the people in the Garfagnana area; sexual desire and activity in the old age is renowned.

About 90% of people allergic to wheat appear to tolerate farro products. Farro has a different genetic makeup than hybridized wheat, and its gluten is more easily digested.

BUYING FARRO

Most important: read the package carefully when you purchase farro to be sure that you are getting Triticum dicoccum. Farro is usually purchased as a whole grain or cracked/crushed so that the hull is released. Although more difficult to find, farro is also ground into flour. Store it like any other grain, in a sealed glass container in a cool, dry place.

USING FARRO

In Italy farro is served as a "primo piatto."

Whole grains: rinse in cool water, picking out impurities such as chaff, pebbles or bad grains, and soak it in cold water to cover for at least 8 hours. Farro will keep in this soaked state in the refrigerator for a few days. To prepare, add it to a broth or boil it by itself for about 2 hours (or 1 hour in a pressure cooker). Keep in mind that farro will continue to absorb liquid and soften once it is cooked, so be sure to have a sufficient amount of liquid and let it rest after cooking for an hour before serving.

Use in: thick soups, hearty stews with legumes /or winter vegetables, risotto (farrotto) type dishes and salads (in place of rice, bulgur or barley), desserts

Crushed grain: prepare as above but reduce the cooking time by half
Use in: soups, stews, savory or sweet ricotta pies

Flour: since gluten content is low it is usually added to regular wheat flour (bread or semolina)
Use in: pasta, bread, pastries or a rustic polenta

Nota Bene: whole grain farro and pasta made from farro can be purchased from or mail ordered from Salumeria Italiana, 151 Richmond St, Boston, MA 02109 www.salumeriaitaliana.com or tel 800-400-5916.

ZUPPA DI FARRO

Tuscans who live around Lucca and the hills around Garfagnana use farro as a staple in the kitchen. In Lucca it is usually purchased at special seed and grain shops where it is sold in bulk. It is most favored when used in a winter soup like this one, a typical Lucchese dish.

It is a perfect dish to make ahead and serve one or 2 days later. Since the soup typically thickens as it cools you will need to add extra water when reheating.

1 lb. dried borlotti or cranberry beans or 1 1/2 (15 oz.) cans borlotti beans

1 ham hock, or prosciutto end pieces, or several thick slices of pancetta or bacon

2 C. (10 oz.) whole grain farro
1/4 C. OO
1 celery rib, finely chopped
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 small carrot finely chopped
1 tsp. garlic, minced
5 leaves fresh sage
several marjoram buds
1 (8 oz.) can Italian plum tomatoes
S & P
OO

optional: Parmigiano Reggiano for grating on soup

Soak the farro overnight with enough cold water to cover by several inches.

Soak the borlotti beans for 12 hours or overnight in a large bowl with cold water to cover by several inches. Drain the beans, rinse, and put them in a large stockpot covered by 3 inches of unsalted cold water. Add the ham hock (or its substitute), cover and simmer until the beans are tender, skimming off foam as necessary - 1- 1 1/2 hours.

While the beans are simmering, pour the oil into a large, heavy sauté pan and sauté the celery, onion, carrot, garlic, sage and marjoram over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft but not brown (5-10 min).

Add the tomatoes, stir to mix well and cook for an additional 20-30 minutes.

When the beans are tender, drain them, reserving their cooking water. Cut the meat off the ham hock (or trim the meat from the prosciutto/pancetta, discarding the fat). Puree the beans and the meat with some of the cooking liquid by whirling them in a food processor. Grandmothers often press the beans through a sieve using a large spoon or spatula and chop the meat fine. Return them to the large stockpot with the remaining cooking water. Add the drained farro to the pot and cook over very low heat, stirring frequently so that the mixture doesn’t stick, until the farro is tender - 1 to 2 hours. Season with S & P and serve warm with a drizzle of OO and a grating of Parmigiano over each serving.

Adapted from In Nonna’s Kitchen by Carol Field, Harper Collins Publishers

FARRO SPAGHETTI

Substitute pasta made from farro in any of your favorite pasta dishes. Since it has an earthy, nutty taste similar to whole wheat pasta, it pairs best with a more assertive vegetable.

Suggestions for additions to cooked farro pasta:

• OO, sautéed mushrooms (mix of sliced portobello, shitake and oyster), garlic, and when serving - top with a drizzle of truffle oil and slices of Taleggio cheese
  
  
• OO, sautéed mushrooms and pork sausages (hot or sweet) - serve with grated cheese
  
  
• sautéed cabbage, or cavolo vero (Tuscan kale), or broccoli rape seasoned with garlic, anchovies and hot red pepper
  
  
• sautéed onions, diced pancetta, halved cherry tomatoes and a pinch of hot red pepper and basil
  
  
• sautéed shellfish, onion, garlic, diced plum tomato, sliced fennel

TORTA SALATA DI FARRO

Cooked farro can be substituted for wheat berries in the traditional sweet ricotta Easter pie- Pastiera or used in this traditional savory cheese pie from Lucca. This makes a very nice lunch served with a salad.

1 1/3 C farro berries (10 oz.)
1 1/2 lb fresh ricotta - drained (place in a cheese cloth lined sieve over a bowl, overnight)
3 eggs
1/3 C grated Parmigiano Reggiano
2 T. chopped parsley
1/4 tsp. grated nutmeg
1/2 tsp sea salt & pepper to taste
one 9-inch springform pan, buttered, and coated with bread crumbs

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Precook the farro as described. In a large mixing bowl, combine the farro with the ricotta, eggs, Parmigiano, parsley and nutmeg. Season to taste with S & P.

Spoon the mixture into the prepared spring form pan. Bake in a preheated 375° F oven for 40 -50 min until golden on top and the filling is set. Cool on a rack, unmold and serve warm or room temperature.