"Ricette e trucchi"
Seasonal recipes and tips

This section is dedicated to favorite seasonal recipes and kitchen tips from my recipe files. I believe that most recipes should be used as basic guidelines, except in pastry making. The cook should be able to improvise according to his or her own tastes, or in response to the ingredients at hand.

First-class seasonal ingredients are, without doubt, the prime secret of an Italian kitchen. Followed with simple honest preparations, guided by tastes and scents, enlivened by the pleasure of sharing with others....

Buon appetito

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P.S. In reading the recipes, please note that OO is my quick way of typing olive oil – extra virgin, of course!

Winter 2007 - HOLIDAY ANTIPASTI

PURPETIELLI IN UMIDO

In Naples octopus are called purpetielli and are cooked in a variety of ways. This simple recipe depends on using very small octopus that are braised in a flavorful tomato sauce. The best place to find baby octopus in Boston is in Chinatown.

1 1/2 lb. very small octopus
4 T. Olive Oil
1 med. onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 C. tomatoes, skinned, seeded, chopped or tomato sauce
1 small glass white wine or white vermouth
2 T. capers
1 hot red pepper, finely chopped or 1/2 tsp. dried hot pepperflakes
2 anchovy filets, coarsely chopped rosemary, marjoram, oregano
2 T. chopped parsley
juice of 1/2 lemon

Rinse the octopus in cold water.

Heat the OO in a saucepan and sauté the onions, until transparent. Add the garlic and tomatoes, cook for a few minutes. Turn the heat up and add the octopus, stir well and after 2 minutes pour in the wine and the herbs, cover and turn the heat down, cover and simmer gently until the octopus is cooked. Test the octopus with the tip of a kitchen knife. It should be very tender, if it is still al dente, simmer longer.

Before serving add lemon juice and parsley. Season with S & P, if needed.

Serve hot with bread for dunking.

TEGAMINO DI PEPERONI

This simple roasted pepper dish is both tasty and easy to make.

2 red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into quarters
OO
S & P
8 anchovy fillets
8 slices mozzarella cheese

Preheat a 500° oven.

Spray a cookie sheet with PAM or wipe the sheet with a very thin coat of OO. Place the peppers on the sheet skin side down, sprinkle lightly with S & P.

Oven roast the peppers until somewhat wilted. Place an anchovy fillet and a slice of mozzarella on top of each pepper quarter. Lower the oven temperature to 350° and bake for another 10-15 min until the cheese melts. Serve hot.

CAPELLE DI FUNGHI RIPIENE

Mushrooms make a natural receptacle for a variety of fillings. This recipe uses standard cultivated mushrooms, but Italy is blessed with an abundant variety of wild mushrooms. In Italy, there seem to be as many variations on this dish as there are people.

large mushroom caps, very white and fresh
Salt and OO

Prepare the mushrooms:

Wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel. Gently detach the stems with out breaking the cap. Mince the stems and reserve.

Preheat the broiler:

Lightly salt the insides of the mushroom caps and brush their tops with OO. Place the mushrooms on a baking tray, stem side down, and broil for about 2 minutes. Turn the mushroom over and empty the cap of the mushroom liquids. Add S & P to the cap and fill the cavities with a small spoonful of pesto or sausage stuffing. Broil the caps for another minute or two, until the stuffing is browned and sizzling.

Filling for mushrooms:

(1) Pesto Filling

3 C. packed fresh basil leaves
3 cloves garlic
1/4 C. pignoli
3/4 C. Olive Oil
1 1/2 Tsp. salt
3/4 C. Parmigiano Reggiano, grated

Wash and dry the basil leaves. Put all the ingredients except the cheese into the blender and process until smooth. Pour the sauce into a bowl, add the Parmigiano and blend well, adjust the seasoning.

(2) Sausage filling

reserved minced mushroom stems
1 small onion, finely minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
Olive Oil
S & P and a pinch crushed red hot pepper
Italian sausage sweet/ hot or a combination of both
Mascarpone cheese
Pecorino Romano cheese
dry, unflavored bread crumbs
Cognac

Heat the OO in a skillet, add the onion and garlic and sauté over med heat until soft and translucent. Add the mushroom stems, salt, cover and sweat until most of the mushroom moisture has been released. Remove the sausage from the casing, break it up into very small bits and add to the mushrooms. Cook uncovered until the sausage has cooked and the moisture has evaporated. Remove from the heat and cool. Stir in Romano cheese and enough mascarpone cheese to moisten the mixture. Season to taste with S & P. Fill the mushrooms with the mixture and sprinkle with breadcrumbs and a drizzle of cognac.

“CILIEGINE” CON SPECK

Small cherry size balls of mozzarella wrapped in a slice of smoked prosciutto “speck” (or cured prosciutto) make a lovely antipasto presentation.

1/2 lemon
1 clove garlic, finely minced
2 T. fresh chives, minced
1/4 C. olive oil
1/4 tsp. hot pepper flakes
9 oz. fresh mozzarella in cherry shapes
6 oz. thin slices of smoked prosciutto

Squeeze the lemon juice into a bowl. Add the garlic, chives, olive oil and hot pepper flakes. Drainthe mozzarella and add to the mixture. Marinate at room temperature for about 2 hrs or cover and marinate in the refrigerator overnight.

Cut the prosciutto slices in half. Wrap 1 slice of prosciutto around each piece of cheese. Arange on a platter and serve immediately.

LIPTAUER CONDITO

True Liptauer is actually a soft sheeps cheese, produced in the Hungarian city of Liptau. Liptauer condito however, is described on the menus in Trieste as a cheese, but it is a little more than that, it is a fashion of mixing and seasoning cheeses. In Central Europe, the ingredients are brought to the table and the diner combines them himself, to suit his own taste. I prefer to mix the ingredients before the party, to my liking. I then mound the softened cheese spread on a platter or a bowl and surround it with slices of heavy rustic dark grain bread and a serving knife.

In Trieste the ingredients are:

Gorgonzola and Mascarpone cheese
Unsalted butter
crushed anchovy
caraway seeds
chopped leeks or chives
chopped baby onion
capers
mustard
paprika

I use about equal portions of Gorgonzola, mascarpone cheese and sweet butter. Add and coarsely mash the other ingredients together into the cheese mixture according to your taste. The resulting spread should be quite savory in taste.

CROSTINI AL GINEPRO E CON BURRO DI ACCIUGHE

Crostini are Italian canapes. They are very much a sign of hospitality in restaurants and homes, widely used with before dinner drinks and at the beginning of a buffet. Here, thin slices of rustic bread are presented with two spreads; liver paste cooked with juniper berries and anchovy butter.

CROSTINI:

Small thin slices of Tuscan or similar bread with crusts left on the bread

AL GINEPRO:

1 lb. chicken livers
2 cloves garlic, peeled
4-6 sage leaves
2 T. Olive Oil
2 T. butter plus 4 T. butter
6-8 juniper berries, lightly crushed or pinched in half
S & P
capers for garnish

Chop chicken livers coarsely. Melt olive oil and 2 T. butter in a sauté pan; add sage, garlic livers. Sauté lightly for 5-8 min. adding the juniper berries and S & P to taste. Cook until the livers are firm but not dry. Remove from the heat. Chop fine and combine with the 4 T. butter or puree in a food processor with the additional butter. Adjust seasoning. Spread on the crostini, which may or may not have been toasted. Garnish with capers.

N.B. - this pate may be made several days in advance. Keep refrigerated. A tablespoon of cognac or brandy may be added to the mixture.

CON BURRO DI ACCIUGHE:

12 T. butter
2 small tins anchovies in oil, drained
capers for garnish

Mash anchovies and cream with butter until a homogenous paste is obtained. This is easily done in the food processor. Place in the refrigerator until firm. Spread on crostini, garnish with capers.

N.B. - this pate can be made several days in advance. Keep refrigerated.

OLIVE CUNZATI

In Sicily, brightly painted stalls often sell olives dressed in a sort of salad. These allow for a little diversion from the simple store bought olives. There are 3 different preparations; one for green olives and two for black (ripe) olives.

OLIVE NERE CONDITE #1:

1 lb. ripe olives
2 large garlic olives
rind of 1 orange, cut into strips without pith
rind of 1 lemon, cut into strips without pith
juice of 2 large lemons, or more
2-3 T. fennel seeds

Taste the olives. If they are too salty, soak them in water for about 1 hr. Place the olives in a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. Add all the other ingredients. Stir with a fork to mix.

Let stand for at least 12 hrs. at room temperature, shaking occasionally, or at least 24 hrs. in the frig.

OLIVE NERE CONDITE #2:

1 lb. black oil - cured olives
1/4 C. rosemary, fresh leaves stripped from branches
rind of 1 orange removed with a zester
3 large garlic cloves, peeled and minced
Olive Oil

Mix the olives with just enough olive oil to coat them. Add all the other ingredients. Place in a bowl. Best if allowed to marinate at room temperature for about 6 hrs. prior to serving. The olives may be warmed in a heavy skillet over medium heat or in a microwave prior to serving.

OLIVE VERDI CONDITE:

1 lb. green olives, cracked or crushed slightly with a heavy object (may also be pitted)
celery, 2 ribs including outer leaves, cut into small pieces
2 carrots, sliced
1/2 sweet green pepper, cut into small pieces (the heart of the celery with its leaves is preferred)
2 carrots, peeled and sliced into small disks
1/2 sweet green pepper, cut into small pieces
1 T. oregano
1/4 - 1/2 tsp. dried crushed hot pepper
1/2 C. olive oil or more to taste
1 T. wine vinegar

Mix all ingredients together and allow to marinate at room temperature for several hours before serving.

ARCHIVES (For more recipes & cooking tips, click here.)

Summer 2007

• Peperoni inbottiti alla barese
• Conchiglie ripiene al tonno
• Agnello marinato alla griglia
• Patate alla Contadina
• Crostata alle Fragole

Summer 2006

• Summer Salads

Winter 2006

• Polenta

Summer 2005

• Grilling Tips
• Borsetta di formaggio
• Spiedino di pesce dell' Adriatico
• Aragosta alla griglia
• Vendura mista in gratticola
• Frutta alla griglia

Spring 2005

• Dandelion Greens -- Dente de Leone -- Cicorino
• Pancotto
• Cicorino in padella
• Insalata di cicorino

Easter 2005

• Pizza Rustica
• Torta Pasqualina
• Abbacchio alla Romana

Holidays 2004

• Baccala alla Siciliana
• Gamberi all'arancia e finocchio
• Panforte di Siena
• Spaghettini alle alici
• Zuppa di lenticchie
• Struffoli - pignolati - cicerchie - diavolilli

Summer 2004 -- Figs

• Prosciutto crudo con fichi
• Fichi d'estate con mascarpone
• Fichi fritte

Winter 2004 -- Hearty Soups

• Minestra d'orzo
• La jota
• Minestrone alla contadina
• Improvising your own minestrone
• Zuppa alla valpelleunentze

Christmas 2003

• Cucidate
• Fichi ripieni alla Sibarita

Summer 2003

• Bruschetta
• Fagioli, tonno e cipolle
• Insalata di pasta arrabbiata
• Pesce spada tonnato
• Fichi d’estate con mascarpone
• Pesche al vino roso

Spring 2003

• Orecchiete con cime di rapa
• Zuppe di ceci
• Carciofi alla Romana
• Salsa di pomodoro con burro
• Pummarola