Summer 2003

Ricette

Here are some of my most favorite summer dishes—enjoy! Oh by the way—OO is my quick way of typing olive oil—extra virgin, of course!

Bruschetta

N.B. Please note that bruschetta is pronounced as "brusketta"... "ch" is pronounced as a hard "k" as in Chianti!

To prepare the bread for bruschetta:

The bread should be firm texture with a crusty exterior. Cut into 1/2 inch thick slices. Toast or grill until light golden brown in color, with a soft interior. When properly grilled, rub the surface with a peeled garlic clove and drizzle with OO. Sprinkle with sea salt and a few grindings of black pepper.

Here's some of my favorite summer topping ideas:

This basic, rustic antipasto can be easily made with left over cooked shell beans. Although white cannellini or borlotti (cranberry) beans are traditionally used, any good quality white, red or brown shell bean will do. This hearty dish is also my favorite summer luncheon dish.

*2 C. dried white cannellini or borlotti beans
2 large cloves of garlic, peeled, halved
optional: 1 sprig of sage
kosher or sea salt

1 med. red onion, thinly sliced
2 -- 7oz. can tuna fish, light Italian packed in OO
fresh tomatoes
1/4 C. OO
lemon wedges

Soak the beans overnight in water to cover. Rinse the beans and place them in a sauce pan covered with about 10 cups of cold water, 1 T. coarse salt, garlic and sage. Bring to a boil, then immediately turn down to a simmer, cooking until soft and tender. Allow the beans to cool in their cooking liquid. Drain the beans and transfer to a serving dish.

Slice the red onion and soak in cold water for about 30 min. to remove the bitter flavors. Break the tuna into large bite-size pieces.

Arrange the tuna in the center of the beans and the onion slices on top of the beans. Cut the tomatoes into wedges and place around the edge of the platter. Drizzle with OO, season with S & P. Serve with lemon wedges.

* When in the neighborhood, check with Alba Produce for fresh borlotti beans. Shell, rinse and cook as above. They will cook in about 20 min. Fresh beans are very sweet in flavor.

This great summer pasta dish is a room temperature version of pasta arrabbiata (angry pasta). It derives its name from being made angry by the addition of red hot chili peppers. The chef is allowed the liberty of adding as much as he or she wishes. It is important to use firm, dry, fresh tomatoes that are not too watery.

1/2 C. basil leaves, torn into small pieces
1 sprig fresh rosemary, leaves stripped off and chopped
1/4 C. mint leaves, chopped
1 T. dried oregano
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 C. capers, rinsed and drained
1/2 C. OO
6 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 tsp. crushed red hot dried peppers, or 1 small fresh chili pepper,
seeded and minced
1/4 C. grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1 lb. penne pasta

Combine the basil, rosemary, mint, oregano, garlic, and capers in a small bowl. Pour on enough olive oil to cover generously.

Combine the tomatoes, hot pepper, and cheese in a large serving bowl.

Cook the penne in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain the pasta, shaking the colander to cool it a bit and transfer it to the serving bowl mixing it with the tomato mixture. Add the herb mixture and toss again. Let stand for up to 4 hours. Taste before serving and add additional salt and olive oil, if necessary, to taste.

Serve at room temperature.

This is a quick and easy adaptation of Vitello Tonnato. Any white meat (veal, chicken, turkey) or light solid fish (bass, monkfish, grouper, halibut) can be poached, or grilled, and flavored with a tonnato sauce. This variation is made with swordfish steaks and can be made the day before or at least a few hours before serving. When tonnato is made with white meat it will keep for a full week in the refrigerator.

4 swordfish steaks, 1/2 in thick (approx 1 1/2 lbs)
1/4 C lemon juice
1/3 C OO

Place swordfish steaks in a shallow dish large enough to hold them in one layer. Whisk the OO with the lemon juice and pour over the fish. Turn the fish to coat completely. Set in the refrigerator to marinate for 1 hr.

Remove the fish steaks from the marinade and place on an oiled broiler pan. Cook about 4 inches from a preheated broiler 3 min each side, or until opaque in the center. Place the cooked fish on a serving platter and cover with the sauce. Garnish with lemon slices, capers and parsley.

tuna sauce:
1 -- 7oz can light tuna in OO
5 anchovy fillets
3 T capers
juice of 1 lemon
1 1/4 C OO
mayonnaise:
2 egg yolks
1 1/4 C OO
2 -3 T lemon juice
1/4 tsp salt

In a blender or a food processor mix the tuna, anchovies, capers, lemon juice, and OO. Process to a creamy paste.

Separately prepare the mayo: place the egg yolks into a round bottom bowl, add the salt and 1 T of the lemon juice. Beat the yolks until pale yellow in color. Very slowly beat in a few drops of OO to create an emulsion. Do not add OO too quickly. Add remaining OO very slowly until the mayo has become quite thick. Add the remaining lemon juice which will thin out the mayo and add flavor. Taste and adjust for seasoning.

Combine tonnato sauce and mayo in a bowl, mix well. Adjust for seasonings.

This dessert can be prepared in less than 5 minutes and is a perfect ending to a summer meal.

fresh black or white figs
1 T. honey per 2 figs
heavy cream
mascarpone cheese
sugar or honey, optional
fresh mint leaves

Beat the mascarpone with some heavy cream and possibly some sugar or honey to taste. The mixture should be a little less firm but not runny. Place the cheese in a mound in the middle of a serving platter.

Cut the figs lengthwise into halves or quarters depending on their size. Arrange them in a pinwheel fashion outside of the cheese and along the rim of the serving platter. Heat the honey (microwave) to make it easy to pour and drizzle the honey over the figs.

Sprinkle with minced fresh mint leaves and garnish the platter with mint sprig tips. Serve each person one or two figs with a dollop of mascarpone cream on the side.

Another one of my favorite summer desserts is the simple preparation of peaches in a fruity dry red wine. This refreshing end to a meal can almost transport me to the Italian vineyards.

6 peaches, ripe but not too soft
juice of 1 lemon
6 T. sugar
3 C. Chianti/Primitivo or any full bodied dry red wine

Rinse and dry the peaches, do not peel them. Cut the peaches in half then into small chunks. Place them in a bowl, squeeze the lemon over the peaches, then sprinkle on the sugar.

Add the wine to the container, cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. Before serving mix well and serve in individual portions with some of the wine.

This is traditionally served in a bowl over another bowl full of ice to keep it as cold as possible.

• Red onions can be livened by marinating in citrus juice. They become less astringent and develop a sweet and sour taste. Place sliced red onions in lime, lemon or orange juice and let sit one hour. Use for salads, sandwiches or as an accompaniment to other dishes.
  
  
• For more mellow garlic flavors, place the whole garlic cloves in a pot and cover with olive oil. Simmer on a low flame until tender. The garlic will become sweet, and can be used in vinaigrettes, mashed potatoes, or to finish pasta.
  
  
• To remove labels off glassware, etc. rub with OO.
  
  
• To keep potatoes from budding, place an apple in the bag with the potatoes.
  
  
• If you accidentally over salt a dish while it is still cooking, drop in a peeled potato and it will absorb the excess salt.
  
  
• Wrap celery in aluminum foil when putting in the refrigerator and it will keep for weeks.
  
  
• Place an apple in hardened brown sugar to soften it.
  
  
• To determine if an egg is fresh, immerse it in a bowl of water. If it sinks it's fresh, but if it rises to the surface, throw it away.
  
  
• If you are sure that you are not going to use that leftover wine, freeze it into ice cubes for future use in sauces.